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Rococo
Early Rococo fashion at the beginning of the 18th century was dominated by hoop skirts, the dome shaped Panier. It was worn with the Contouche, a loose front
closing robe with large back pleats and a matching skirts the so called jupe. These gowns were often portrayed by Antoine Watteau so that the pleats became known as Watteau pleats.
The sleeves had large cuffs. This dress style was followed by the Robe a la Francaise, the most popular garment of the Rococo era from c. 1740. The prefered colors were pastels,
later also rich blue and red tones. Hair was worn in curls and with a variety of white cotton caps. Fashions in hair and clothing became more exuberant in the second half of the century. The
bodice of the Robe a la Francaisenow had a close fitting front with waist seam. A richly decorated steel boned stomacher filled the middle part. The back pleats remained in fashion. Skirts
were trimmed with ribbon, flowers, embroidery, pearls and ruching. Sleeves were decorated with multi-layered Engageantes. he most popular fabrics were silks, taffeta and brocade, plain or
with floral patterns. The late 18th century also had smaller patterns with stripes and garlands. Silks from Spitalfields in England were very fashionable in France. The 1770s
introduced a new gown style: the robe a la Polonaise. It had a looped up overskirt and was worn with small side hoops (Considérations) - and later with small hip pads.
At 1780 skirts became smaller and hair styles much bigger. The hoop skirt disappeared and the Robe a l´Anglaise
found its way into the wardrobes of nobility and commoners. The bodice was tight, closed above the bosom with two meeting edges and opened towards the waistline (“zone gown”) or fastened edge to edge. Skirts were supported by bumpads. Stripes in every variety were all the rage. Hair fashion reached a grotesque climax in high coiffures with built-in ships etc. The fashions of the revolution also used cotton fabrics. Undergarments in the rococo period were: a cotton Chemise or shift as the first layer, stays and skirt supports. Stockings were made of silk and could be white or colored. Popular accessories were fans, flowers, heads and hoods ( depending on the current fashions small or exuberant, made of straw or silk), tall walking canes ( fashion of the French revolution) and luxurious jewelry.
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